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January 20, 2003
A breath of fresh air
Surrounded by a massive industrial buildup,
the Northern Cheyenne tribe defends its homeland
by Bob Struckman
and Ray Ring
http://www.hcn.org/servlets/hcn.Article?article_id=13658
BADGER PEAK, Mont. — Stand on a rocky outcrop on this modest,
pine-clad mountain, the highest point on the Northern Cheyenne Reservation,
and gaze northward, and you can see the four smokestacks of Montana’s
largest power plant, Colstrip, clustered on the horizon, 16 miles
away. The stacks puff like giant cigarettes. And today, from near
the stacks, a separate black plume of smoke rises.
The plume drifts southwest on the prevailing winds, toward Badger
Peak and tribal air space.
Jay Littlewolf, an air-quality technician for the Northern Cheyenne,
says the smoke comes from the huge strip mine that feeds coal to
the furnaces of the power plant. “Must be blasting to loosen the
coal beds,” he says.
Other than the smokestacks and the black plume, there is no trace
of industry in sight. Red rocky ridges roll out to brown-grass plains
under high wispy clouds and blue sky.
Littlewolf steps into the tribe’s air-quality monitoring station
on the peak. It’s little more than a stuffy shack, with a dozen
mousetraps on the floor. But the sensitive equipment housed here
measures traces of air pollutants, such as nitrogen dioxide and
sulfur dioxide, and weather conditions, such as wind speed and direction.
A new digital camera takes twice-a-day photos of the skies over
the Colstrip stacks and mine.
“A few years ago, we would have heard rumors about a plume like
that,” Littlewolf says. “But with (the camera), we’ll have visuals
to go along with the rest of our data.”
This is one of three mountaintop air-monitoring stations the tribe
has deployed along the reservation border closest to Colstrip, making
sure the drifting smoke doesn’t violate the tribe’s air-quality
standards, which are some of the toughest in the U.S. It’s a line
of defense held by one of the most determined environmental programs
anywhere.
In southeast Montana, the Northern Cheyenne Reservation is an
island. The tribe has been nearly surrounded by no less than five
huge strip mines, as well as the Colstrip power plant, haulage railroads
and transmission lines. Montana’s only active coalbed methane field
sucks gas and groundwater from several hundred wells near the reservation’s
southern border, and there are proposals for thousands more methane
wells. And a few miles east of the reservation, in the only direction
still undeveloped, the Montana state government has allied with
industry seeking to create a new strip mine, and possibly build
another power plant and railroad.
Yet for 30 years, the Northern Cheyenne — a relatively small and
isolated tribe — have fought powerful corporations that want to
develop the coalbeds that underlie almost every inch of the reservation.
They have done what many other tribes have been unable to do: protected
their land and culture, and repeatedly reached beyond their borders
to battle development off the reservation.
But economic paralysis is testing the tribe’s resolve. Some Northern
Cheyenne are starting to see coal and gas royalties as a solution
to the reservation’s crushing poverty, crime, alcoholism and drug
abuse.
“People are hungry here, they’re dying, they suffer day by day.
They fight over a $15 food voucher,” says Danny Sioux, who just
finished a term on the tribal council. “I went to 47 funerals (last)
year, mostly young people. We have tremendous social problems.”
He is among those who want to take up mining and drilling to generate
jobs and an economy. “That’s the only option we have. We have spent
the last 30 years in litigation (against coal companies), we’ve
blackmailed the socks off these corporations, and how has it helped
our situation?”
Will the Northern Cheyenne hold out, or give in to industrial
development? Is there a third way — to avoid invasion by corporations,
but still gain from small-scale development? These questions hold
implications for Indians and non-Indians alike, as a new wave of
energy development sweeps into the West.
A hard-won homeland
The Northern Cheyenne environmental stand continues a long tribal
tradition. The tribe’s resistance to white settlers, prospectors
and the U.S. Cavalry is legendary: They helped the Sioux tribe wipe
out Gen. George Armstrong Custer’s men in the Battle of the Little
Bighorn (just west of the reservation’s present boundary) in 1876.
The Northern Cheyenne endured broken treaties and massacres, but
even when the tribe was eventually relocated to Oklahoma with the
Southern Cheyenne (who lived on the Central Plains), the resistance
continued. In 1878, led by chiefs Dull Knife and Little Wolf, some
300 Northern Cheyenne men, women and children tried to walk from
Oklahoma back to Montana, trudging through snowstorms and dodging
an estimated 13,000 soldiers and vigilantes.
More than 60 Northern Cheyenne were killed on that walk, memorialized
in the semi-accurate Hollywood movie, Cheyenne Autumn. But some
made it to Montana, and the tribe was granted a reservation here
in the Tongue River country in 1884.
The Northern Cheyenne Indian reservation is not large. Over the
years, its boundaries have been adjusted, and now it encompasses
about 707 square miles of rugged, semi-arid country, rising up to
Badger Peak’s 4,422-foot elevation. Ponderosa pines dot the long
red ridges, and sagebrush, skunkweed and prairie grasses fill the
narrow valleys. The Tongue River meanders along the eastern border.
“We had to fight for it, with our spirit (and) our determination
to continue and survive as a people on our land,” says Joe Little
Coyote, the tribe’s economic development planner.
During community meetings, old men still rise to expound on the
lessons learned at Little Bighorn and lesser-known confrontations,
such as the Battle of the Rosebud on June 17, 1876, in which a woman
warrior, whose name has been translated as Buffalo Calf Road Woman,
fought bravely and saved her brother’s life.
The struggles didn’t end once the Northern Cheyenne won their
reservation. Generations since have faced tough times, trying to
survive on small-scale ranching, logging and federal assistance,
far from any city, airport or interstate highway.
Yet under the reservation’s surface lie arguably the biggest coal
reserves held by any tribe — an estimated 20 to 50 billion tons,
part of a coal belt that stretches from southeast Montana into Wyoming.
The coal tends to be low-sulfur, relatively clean-burning and desirable
as a fuel for power plants. Large-scale strip mining began on land
near the reservation in 1968, and when the Arab oil embargo sparked
an energy crisis in the early 1970s, the coal companies ramped up
production.
At first, the tribe saw this as an opportunity. From 1966 to 1971,
the tribal council signed coal leases with a half-dozen corporations
and speculators, including Peabody Coal, Consolidated Coal, and
Amax Coal.
The federal Bureau of Indian Affairs acted as trustee for the
tribe, theoretically watching out for the tribe’s interests. But
the BIA didn’t even complete an environmental impact statement,
and the leases covered more than half the reservation. The agency
sold the exploration rights for about $9 per acre, and the tribe
would have received royalties of no more than 17.5 cents a ton for
any coal mined.
“The BIA had sold our coal for less than gravel,” says Gail Small,
the outspoken leader of Native Action, a Northern Cheyenne activist
group.
“The federal and tribal representatives were clearly overmatched”
in those lease negotiations, says Jason Whiteman Jr., a Northern
Cheyenne who has worked in the tribe’s environmental program since
the 1970s. “We had no idea what the impacts would be,” he says,
and the terms of the deal were “unconscionable.”
The Northern Cheyenne began to understand the implications as
the corporations drilled thousands of exploration holes and announced
plans to build power plants on the reservation. Such development
would threaten more than the tribe’s cattle ranches and crops. It
would strike at the underlying tribal culture. “I remember seeing
blueprints for boomtowns of 30,000 people on the reservation — we
would’ve been a minority here,” says Whiteman.
So the tribe set out to regain control of the reservation. Charismatic
tribal chairman Allen Rowland — a former truck driver and janitor
who carried Japanese shrapnel in his flesh, a souvenir of his service
in World War II — led the fight in the 1970s. The tribe hired a
series of lawyers, including an Osage Indian named George Crossland,
and a white lawyer from Seattle, Steve Chestnut. Some of the pioneering
white environmentalists in Montana also came to the reservation
to help organize.
“The first leaflet had (a headline summing up the threat of development):
‘The termination of the Northern Cheyenne,’ ” recalls Bill Bryan,
who ran the Northern Rockies Action Group back then.
Claiming the BIA had violated laws and neglected its role as trustee,
the Northern Cheyenne presented a 600-page petition to then-Secretary
of Interior Rogers C.B. Morton. It was a bold move. Working the
highest levels of federal government, within a few years the tribe
got all those coal leases canceled, forced the corporations to pay
about $10 million in damages, and gained control of another 7,000
acres one corporation had bought for mining.
Victory upon victory
Throughout the 1970s, Tribal Chairman Rowland helped foster a younger
generation of budding activists and leaders, who were so inspired
and empowered by early victories that they have retained a sense
of mission and optimism ever since. This core has made all the difference.
Among the innovative steps taken by Rowland in those days was
a youth program in which local kids traveled by bus to visit coal
mines in Wyoming and on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona. Gail
Small recalls sitting for a photograph with about 20 fellow students
in a huge mechanical shovel near Gillette, Wyo., and feeling awed
by the immense power of the mining operation.
“We were sent out as scouts, and on the way home we talked about
it. We got fired up. We knew that, given the chance, we would be
exploited,” says Small, who earned a law degree at the University
of Oregon and worked with California tribes, then came home to work
with her people.
Rowland also began the Northern Cheyenne Research Project, which
tapped federal money to attract scientists from across the nation
to the reservation to brainstorm ways to tackle environmental issues.
Tribal members like Jason Whiteman apprenticed in the Research Project
and began running the tribe’s environmental program.
With that momentum, the Northern Cheyenne took the offensive.
When a consortium of utilities sought to expand the Colstrip power
plant, the tribe found leverage through the federal Clean Air Act.
It became the first government of any kind to voluntarily raise
its air-quality standard to the highest level, a Class I Airshed
— the same as national parks and wilderness areas.
“We got our Class I designation on August 5, 1977,” says Jay Littlewolf,
who knows the date by heart, “two days before the first parks and
wilderness areas got it.”
The Northern Cheyenne forced the utilities to spend $500 million
to equip the Colstrip stacks with the best air-pollution scrubbers,
Littlewolf says. Those corporations also agreed to fund the tribe’s
air-monitoring program, as well as provide college scholarships
and job preferences for tribal members.
As industry pressures increased, the Northern Cheyenne continued
to stand tough in courts and gain concessions from corporations
in savvy negotiations. The tribe voided industry-friendly coal leases
made on three sides of the reservation by the Reagan administration’s
secretary of Interior, James Watt, in 1982, and canceled the permit
for the Montco mine just east of the reservation in 1997. The Northern
Cheyenne also cancelled the allotment of much of the reservation’s
subsurface mineral rights to individual tribal members and heirs
— something coal speculators had hoped to take advantage of. Now
the tribe effectively retains ownership of all the subsurface rights
on the reservation.
Northern Cheyenne leaders have also worked with Native Action
and the Northern Plains Resource Council, a Billings-based environmental
group whose members include white ranchers, to block the development
of a new railroad along the Tongue River, which has been pushed
by coal speculators for several decades.
Now the tribe is working on a tough water-quality program, building
its enforcement power on the federal Clean Water Act. “We’re developing
our own water-quality standards,” says Joe Walksalong Jr., a tribal
water-quality technician, “equal to or better than the federal and
state standards.”
Reservation economy languishes
The Northern Cheyenne have done a remarkable job of looking out
for their land and air, but they have had a more difficult time
caring for their people.
These days, 4,200 Northern Cheyenne live on the reservation, and
at least 65 percent are unemployed, with fully 87 percent living
in poverty, according to the tribe’s own economic analysis in 2001.
Average annual income that year was $4,479.
In many places on the reservation, basic services like drinking
water are not reliable. Housing is shoddy and hard to find. Up to
eight families crowd into a single dwelling, while 700 families
sit on a waiting list for housing. Infant mortality ranks among
the worst in the U.S., and average life expectancy is only 60 years,
compared to 77 for the nation as a whole. There are high rates of
substance abuse, diabetes, violence and crime.
A few families run B&Bs and other small businesses that cater
to the scarce tourists who come here. But the tribal sawmill has
shut down. Most grazing land is in the hands of a few extended families.
Eighty-five percent of the cultivatable farmland is not being farmed,
and most of that is infested with weeds.
The reservation’s land, fought for by some, is neglected by others.
Roads are lined with dirty diapers, aluminum cans and other litter,
and right on the main highway, there’s an open dump.
Things are so difficult, about 3,200 Northern Cheyenne live off
the reservation. “Almost 50 percent of the population has moved
away, because there is no opportunity here,” says Danny Sioux, who
served on the tribal council from 1986 to 1988 and from 1998 through
last November, when he lost a bid for re-election.
If the tribe developed its own coal, he says, it would go a long
way toward solving economic problems. Even at the low royalties
of the leases that were canceled in the 1970s, the tribe’s coal
is worth at least $3 billion.
In fact, despite the tribe’s reputation for environmental protection
at all costs, many Northern Cheyenne have pushed for some kind of
natural-resource development.
A proposal for conventional oil and gas drilling on the reservation
was put to a vote in 1980, and won overwhelming approval. The tribe
struck a $6 million deal with ARCO for exploration rights, but ARCO
drilled a few holes and decided the project wasn’t feasible. Tribal
chairman Edwin Dahle, who generally took an environmental stance
while in office, supported a proposal to open a mine just east of
the reservation in 1990. But that proposal stalled out.
Steve Chestnut, the Seattle lawyer who has represented the Northern
Cheyenne in many environmental battles, says he’s advised the tribe
to do limited commercial coal mining on the reservation. “The Cheyenne
have a fabulous coal reserve, and they can’t bring themselves to
develop even a small piece of it,” Chestnut says, adding that while
he respects that position, “they are paying a price for preservation.”
Danny Sioux has worked in the mines and trained other miners;
he has also worked for the power plant, at times in the control
room, running a turbine. He’s had tribal jobs as well, and now ekes
out a living by repairing fences, leasing out his small piece of
grazing land and doing odd jobs. He points out that industrial jobs
pay far better than other local jobs, and that some Northern Cheyenne
have had careers in the industry. “It would be a blessing for this
tribe,” he says, if the latest possibility of starting a mine just
east of the reservation pans out.
The tribe should become “a shareholder” in that project, he says,
and also develop the reservation’s coal. He also believes that the
tribe should try limited methane development, with small, 20-megawatt
modular power plants linked to a few wells.
“The tribe could be in control of development. We could try to
do it right,” Sioux says. “Economically, that would generate a tremendous
income to the tribe. We could set up a training program” and a facility
where tribal members could be employed in a range of enterprises.
But when he lost the election last fall, Danny Sioux was cast
as “Coalbed-methane Danny” by some opponents. Collective opinion
is hard to measure now, but most Northern Cheyenne still apparently
don’t like the idea of strip mining and coalbed-methane development
on the reservation.
Development comes with a price
That kind of development, on the reservation or nearby, would add
to the environmental impacts already being felt from the current
mining, power-plant furnaces and methane drilling.
The mammoth Colstrip plant, with 2,000-megawatt capacity, burns
about 10 million tons of coal each year. Even with the scrubbers
on the smokestacks, the plant emitted about 19,000 tons of sulfur
dioxide in 2001, and 35,000 tons of nitrogen oxide, 3,700 tons of
particulates, 2,400 tons of carbon monoxide, and 343 tons of volatile
organic compounds. The five strip mines altogether throw about 4,000
tons of pollution into the air each year, mostly dust from blasting
and trucks on haul roads.
As the air pollution spreads over the vast open spaces, it has
caused no noteworthy air-quality violations on the reservation in
recent years. The power-plant operators, originally Montana Power
Co. and now PPL Montana, report good relations with the tribe. But
the emissions likely contribute to an occasional haze on the horizon,
a haze also fed by more distant power plants, cars in Billings,
Mont., and other sources of smoke.
The mines take bites out of the landscape, digging as much as
200 feet deep and a mile long. Jim Mockler, director of the Montana
Coal Council, cites the success of some mine reclamation in the
area. “We have shown we can mine the coal and do it right, return
the (surface of the) land to good condition.” But even good reclamation
doesn’t entirely restore native vegetation. The mines also consume
sandstone cliffs that hold petroglyphs and pictographs, and affect
groundwater, seeps and springs.
Coalbed-methane development, which requires moving huge volumes
of often salty groundwater, takes over entire landscapes and impacts
water below and on the surface (HCN, 9/2/02:
Backlash). The Tongue River is already receiving salty runoff
from methane wells upriver, Joe Walksalong says, and the runoff
in the river and in Rosebud Creek will likely increase with expanded
methane development. There are plans for up to 16,000 new methane
wells near the reservation.
The threats to water are particularly troubling to the Northern
Cheyenne. Surface water is used for irrigating crops and pasture,
but the meaning of water reaches deeper than its uses. Many springs
and the river figure in Cheyenne sacred ceremonies that date back
generations. “Cheyenne live all along the river,” says Gail Small.
“They bathe in the river, a ceremonial for healing, when the roots
of a certain plant in the headwaters are at highest strength.”
As much as he wants economic development, Joe Little Coyote agrees:
“We don’t want to do anything that might impact our water, no matter
how good it looks.” So he doesn’t want mining on the reservation,
and has instead put together 111 pages of analysis, calling for
the tribe to establish a commerce department, seed local businesses,
and develop energy projects tapping renewable resources such as
wind and solar. Gail Small’s group, Native Action, is pressuring
a regional bank to open a branch in Lame Deer, so that loans will
be easier to acquire. And other efforts to jump-start an economy
are afoot.
Tribal President Geri Small — Gail Small’s sister, who was elected
in 2000 — says, “I’ve been told that if we mined our coal, we’d
be millionaires.” But she is against mining and methane: “We want
to keep our homeland, keep it intact.”
Resurgence of the culture
In many tales of Indian sovereignty, tribes have given up control
of their land and resources. Just to the west, on the neighboring
Crow Reservation, for example, that tribe leased some of its coal
for a mine that has been digging for 30 years. And the Crow recently
struck a deal with a Denver corporation to develop coalbed methane
on their reservation.
But there are no good examples of tribes developing their natural
resources so far, says A. David Lester, director of the Council
of Energy Resource Tribes, based in Denver. Tribes that have tried
coal mining, like the Crow and Navajo, don’t have appreciably better
living conditions and economies on their reservations, he says,
because they let outsiders — corporations and the federal government
— set low royalties and dictate the other terms.
“It’s hard to say that natural-resource economic development,
with the model that’s been used, produces any real benefits for
any tribe, or any sustainable economic activity,” Lester says. A
tribe is wiser not to make any deals until it can retain control
of how development is done, so “it fits in your values and culture.”
That’s what the Northern Cheyenne are doing: Preserving the tribe’s
land and culture from an onslaught of outsiders, as well as defending
the reservation against environmental threats.
The dismal statistics on economic and social problems don’t show
the strengths of the Northern Cheyenne culture. “It’s a communal
way of life,” says Gail Small. “A lot of people who have never been
part of a tribe have a hard time understanding it.”
She and other Northern Cheyenne leaders cite a resurgence in the
Northern Cheyenne language, and the revival of the sweat lodge and
other sacred ceremonies, especially the Sun Dance — three days of
fasting and dancing that purify individuals and the tribe.
“More young people are getting into the role of spiritual leader,”
says Zane Spang, who works at the tribe’s Dull Knife College, where
about 100 students pursue two-year degrees in fields such as business
and computers. “I think it’s a sense of pride. It identifies the
individual as a member of the culture.”
“Families pool their resources and give away (piles of) gifts
at powwows and funerals,” reports Duane Champagne of the University
of California-Los Angeles, a sociologist who has studied the tribe.
“Cheyenne values emphasize cooperation, sharing, generosity, religious
spirituality and tribal welfare, all of which conflict with Western
notions of competition, materialism, self-interest and individual
achievement.”
“The cultural infrastructure here has no room for individualists,”
agrees Joe Little Coyote. So far, that makes capitalism the odd
man out. But if the tribal culture is going to endure, the Northern
Cheyenne must address their economic and social problems somehow.
If they continue to stand firm on protecting the environment, they
will have to find new ways to meet those challenges.
Jay Littlewolf drives his pickup truck from Badger Peak on teeth-clacking
dirt roads, past holy springs marked by cloth tied to bushes and
trees. At the tribe’s Natural Resources office, the rear half of
a Quonset hut at the edge of Lame Deer, he meets Jason Whiteman
and several more coworkers, who wear gloves and carry shovels and
rakes. Everyone’s talking about a cleanup that’s under way today,
of an unofficial dump near Lame Deer Creek.
Shortly, Whiteman and a technician head off toward the reservation’s
southern boundary, scouting for a site where one of six water-monitoring
wells will be established to check for impacts from current and
future coal and methane development.
“The companies will never leave us alone,” says Whiteman. “They
will always be knocking at the door.”
Bob Struckman lived in Montana for more than 20 years, and now writes
from Boulder, Colorado. Ray Ring is HCN’s editor in the field, based
in Bozeman, Montana.
You can contact ...
- Northern Cheyenne tribal office, in Lame Deer, Mont., 406/477-6284
or www.ncheyenne.net
- Gail Small, Native Action, in Lame Deer, 406/477-6390;
- Council of Energy Resource Tribes, director A. David Lester,
in Denver, Colo., 303/282-7576 or www.certredearth.com
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